Makes 4 servings

Time: Weekend

Storage: Refrigerate, without the garnishes, for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Store the fried tortilla and chile strips at room temperature for up to 3 days.

2 ancho chiles (36g), stemmed, seeded, and rinsed

Boiling water

3 Roma tomatoes (5 ounces/140g each)

¼ white onion (63g), peeled but left in one piece

2 garlic cloves, unpeeled

3½ cups (830ml) vegetable broth, plus more as needed

2 cups (300g to 340g) cooked pinto beans, cooking liquid reserved, or canned (from two 15-ounce/425g cans), drained and liquid reserved

½ cup (120ml) plus 1 teaspoon avocado or other neutral oil

4 (6-inch/15cm) corn tortillas, cut into strips

2 pasilla chiles (32g), seeded and cut into strips

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (150g) cubed avocado, for garnish

½ cup (120ml) vegan sour cream, for garnish

½ cup (56g) vegan feta, for garnish

HEAT A DUTCH OVEN or other deep heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the ancho chiles and toast until fragrant and lightly toasted, 30 seconds per side. Transfer them to a heatproof bowl, pour the boiling water over them, soak for 10 minutes, and drain. Transfer to a blender.

In the same pot over medium-high heat, combine the tomatoes, onion, and garlic. Cook, turning frequently, until they become soft and slightly charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool slightly, peel the garlic, and transfer it, along with the tomatoes and onion, to the blender. Add 1 cup (240ml) of the vegetable stock and puree until smooth. Transfer the tomato/ancho puree to a bowl or measuring cup with a spout and rinse out the blender.

Add the beans and 1 cup (240ml) of their cooking liquid (or a combination of liquid from the can and more vegetable stock if using canned) to the blender. Puree until smooth, adding more cooking liquid if needed to get the mixture to the consistency of thick cream.

In the Dutch oven, heat ½ cup (120ml) of the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the tortilla strips and pasilla chile strips and cook, stirring frequently, until crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate. Carefully pour the hot oil into a heatproof bowl, let cool, and save for another use.

Put the Dutch oven back over medium heat, add the tomato/ancho puree and simmer until it turns dark red and thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir in the bean puree, bay leaf, thyme sprig, salt, black pepper, and remaining 2½ cups (590ml) vegetable stock. Bring to a simmer and cook until it has the consistency of smooth cream and the flavors meld, about 15 minutes. (Fish out and compost the bay leaf.) Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Divide the soup among serving bowls and garnish with the fried tortilla and chile strips, avocado, almond crema, and queso fresco. Serve hot.