Pasta alla Norma is a fabled Sicilian dish that is especially popular for those in search of a hearty vegetarian pasta option. In conventional versions, the eggplant is fried to give it a meat-l ike chew and rich flavor; I wanted to see if I could make it a little lighter and brighter, so I roasted the eggplant instead of frying it and paired it with a quickly cooked fresh tomato sauce that stains rather than coats the pasta. To amplify the flavor even further, I have substituted smoked mozzarella for the usual ricotta salata, as I love the smokier notes with the roasted eggplant. It’s simple but sumptuous.

INGREDIENTS

2 medium eggplants (about 1½ pounds in total)

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3½ teaspoons kosher salt

3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1½ pounds Campari or stem tomatoes, cut into large dice

¼ cup (lightly packed) chopped fresh basil, plus torn leaves for garnish

1 pound short pasta, such as cavatelli or orecchiette

1¼ cups grated smoked mozzarella cheese

STEPS

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

Trim the stem end of the eggplants and cut lengthwise into 3 slabs about 1 inch thick. Stack the slabs and cut in thirds lengthwise. Cut the strips on the bias, alternating the angle of your knife to create irregular chunks ¾ to 1 inch long.

Spread the eggplant pieces on the lined pan and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of the salt, toss, and roast on the top rack of the oven until the eggplant has some deep brown spots but the pieces still hold their shapes, 20 to 25 minutes, tossing every 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Discard the garlic, then add the tomatoes and cook, stirring often, until the tomato pieces are soft and juicy but not entirely collapsed, about 6 minutes. Stir in the basil and remaining 1½ teaspoons salt and remove from the heat.

Bring a large pot of well- salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until not quite al dente, about 2 minutes less than the package directions. Using a large slotted spoon, scoop the pasta directly into the skillet with the tomato sauce. Add ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water and ¾ cup of the mozzarella.

Cook the pasta with the sauce over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is creamy and the pasta is cooked through. If the pasta looks dry, add pasta water as needed to maintain a loose sauce. Add the eggplant, cook for another minute to heat through, and add a bit more salt to taste.

Serve sprinkled with the remaining ½ cup mozzarella and the torn basil leaves.