Mangú dates back to the 1500s, when plantains first showed up on the islands. The African roots of this dish are clear. It’s another example of West African fufu showing up in the Caribbean, as the key to this dish is mashing or pounding the plantain until it changes texture. The subject of African origins can be a touchy one in Dominican culture and has, throughout the history of the island, given rise to some truly brutal xenophobic and racist acts. Haitians living in the Dominican Republic are often the targets of these acts, along with anyone else who presents what are thought of as African features. Some examples include dictator Rafael Trujillo’s Parsley Massacre in 1937, and the more recent legal and administrative actions of President Luis Abinader and his government that aim to expel people of Haitian descent from the country, regardless of their residency status, and specifically target the Black population, even if they have no Haitian background.

While this recipe looks simple, there is a real skill to getting the plantain to a smooth texture. If you find it’s still looking dry, you can keep adding more water, butter, or olive oil as you mash, but one of the vital tricks is using a bit of cold water at the end. Traditionally served with salami frito, queso frito, and huevos fritos—Los Tres Golpes—Mangú is delicious with anything saucy, but I particularly love it with the Sòs Ti-Malice with Shrimp (recipe is in the book Belly Full, below), pairing dishes from each side of the island as a symbol of unity. If you ever want to impress a person from the Dominican Republic, tell them you made mangú.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Ingredients:

Kosher salt

3 green plantains, peeled and cut into 4 pieces each (see Note below)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ red onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature

1 to 3 tablespoons cold water

Instructions:

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons salt and the plantain pieces, and cook for 25 to 35 minutes, until the plantains are very tender, very yellow, and starting to fall apart when you try to stab one with a fork.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it’s just beginning to soften but still retains some crunch, about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and carefully stir in the vinegar to avoid splatters from the hot oil. Set aside.

Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the plantains to a large, sturdy bowl, reserving the cooking water. Start mashing them immediately with a fork or potato masher. Add 1 teaspoon salt, half the butter, and ¼ cup of the reserved cooking water and mash until they are incorporated. Mash in the rest of the butter, then add up to another ¼ cup of cooking water, until it’s looking relatively smooth. Add the cold water 1 tablespoon at a time, and continue to mash until the plantains are positively creamy.

Scrape the onions and every bit of oil and vinegar you can from the pan on top of the plantains and serve immediately. The mangú will harden quickly, so it’s best to eat it as soon as possible.

Note:

HOW TO PREPARE PLANTAINS: Trim off both ends. Using a sharp paring knife, make a slit lengthwise down the plantain. If it is ripe, the skin will peel off almost as easily as a banana’s. If it is green, make another slit on the other side. Work either the knife or your finger between the peel and the flesh, and pull up. The thick skin will separate, and once you’ve gotten it started, the rest will come off quite easily. As the fruit oxidizes, the peel might stain your fingers black, but for me it comes off easily with soap and water.