2 sticks (16 tablespoons/226 grams) unsalted butter

2 cups (473 ml) apple cider or apple juice (see Note)

3½ cups spooned and leveled all-purpose flour (448 grams)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup (200 grams) packed light brown sugar

1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar, divided

2 large eggs, room temperature

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons (15 grams) ground cinnamon

Instructions

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Continue cooking, stirring often to prevent the milk solids from burning, until the butter foams and then darkens in color slightly and is very fragrant, 4 to 6 minutes. Immediately pour the butter and any browned bits into a large heatproof bowl. Do not wash the saucepan.

2. Add the apple cider to the saucepan and bring to a simmer over high heat. (Be careful; the cider will sizzle when you pour it in the pan.) Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced to ⅓ cup (79 ml), 18 to 22 minutes. (The easiest way to test if the reduction is ready is to pour it into a heatproof measuring glass.) Pour the reduced cider into the bowl with the butter and let the mixture cool for 5 minutes.

3. While the cider is cooling, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, ginger, allspice, and salt in a medium bowl. Preheat the oven to 350°F and set 2 racks at the upper-middle and lower-middle positions. Line 3 baking sheets (or as many as you have) with parchment paper or nonstick baking mats.

4. Add the brown sugar and 1 cup (200 grams) of the granulated sugar to the butter mixture and whisk until smooth and glossy. Add the eggs and vanilla extract and whisk until smooth. Add the flour mixture and mix with a rubber spatula just until a soft dough forms with no pockets of dry flour.

5. In a shallow medium bowl, combine the remaining ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar with the cinnamon. Using a medium 1¾-inch (#40) cookie scoop or 2 tablespoons, portion out the dough and roll into balls. Roll the balls in the cinnamon sugar and place at least 3 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets (10 per sheet).

6. Bake 2 sheets at the same time, swapping the top sheet to the bottom rack and bottom sheet to the top midway through baking, until the cookies crack and are very fragrant, 12 to 15 minutes, then bake the last sheet on either rack. (If reusing one of the baking sheets, allow it to cool for 15 minutes before baking another batch on it.) Let the cookies cool completely on the baking sheets.