Elegant and beautiful, this butternut squash puree gets a bright lift from turmeric and cayenne, while the tarka, with the Bengali blend panch phoron, adds little pops of nutty, bittersweet flavors. Sometimes I skip the pumpkin seeds when I’m short on time, but I do really like the toothsome texture they bring to the puree.

Ingredients:

ROASTED SQUASH

1 medium butternut squash (2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1-inch squares (6 to 7 cups)

1 tablespoon neutral oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

SOUP

2 tablespoons neutral oil

1 medium yellow onion, diced (1½ cups)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

Rounded ¼ teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

4 cups water

PUMPKIN SEED TOPPING

1 teaspoon neutral oil

⅓ cup raw pumpkin seeds

¼ teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder (see Tip below)

Fine sea salt

TARKA

1 tablespoon ghee, store-bought or homemade, or neutral oil

1 tablespoon Panch Phoron (see Tip below)

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

2. Roast the squash: Place the diced squash in a large bowl and toss with the oil and a sprinkle each of salt and black pepper. Spread it out evenly on a large baking sheet and roast until the squash is nearly tender, about 25 minutes, flipping the pieces halfway through. (For the best color in this soup, don’t let your roasted squash get too brown.)

3. Prepare the soup: When the squash is almost done roasting, heat the oil in a 4- to 6-quart stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent but not golden, about 8 minutes. Add the turmeric, cayenne, and salt and stir until all the ingredients are combined.

4. Add the roasted squash and the water to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low so the soup is gently simmering. Cook, partially covered, until the squash is completely tender and the flavors have melded, about 20 minutes. Puree the soup with a stick blender or in a blender until velvety smooth, then adjust the seasoning. The soup may be prepared ahead of time to this point, if desired, and rewarmed before serving.

5. Make the garnish: While the soup is cooking, prepare the pumpkin seeds. Heat an 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and pumpkin seeds and stir for a minute or two until the seeds begin to color. Add the Kashmiri chili powder and stir for another minute, or until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and transfer to a plate.

6. Make the tarka: Wipe out the same small skillet. Add the ghee and set the skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, reduce the heat to medium, add the panch phoron, and cook, stirring constantly, until the seeds start popping and the pale seeds turn golden, about 1 minute. Immediately pour the spices over the soup. Stir and adjust the seasoning. Serve in bowls, topped with the spiced pumpkin seeds.